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A Guide for Violin Photography

Instruments of the violin family are some of the most difficult objects to photograph. Because a violin usually has a shiny, curved surface, it reflects the light. Because of its three-dimensional nature, the fluting, the scroll and the depth of the arching of the violin are difficult and challenging features to capture on film. Details such as wood grains, purfling, or texture of the varnish are very small and therefore difficult to see. Parts of the instrument are covered by objects such as the bridge and tailpiece, which produce shadows. With the right choice of film and lighting, the optimal color and correct proportions of the violin will be reproduced accurately in the negative.

In addition to a thorough verbal description, photographs play an essential part in identifying a violin, viola, cello or bow. In order for you to achieve a good photograph in a non-professional environment, we can lend the following advice. While we are aware that these guidelines may be complex for your photography equipment, we will greatly appreciate your sending the best photographs you are able to prepare.

Be aware of the right lighting

Lighting is the most crucial element of photography.

Do not use a flash.

Using several smaller light sources will bring better results than working with a few large light sources.

If you use a conventional camera with daylight film, use natural indirect light. “Daylight” film is set for 5500 Kelvin, which is comparable to the light on a bright, sunny day.

If you use a conventional camera with tungsten film, use several lights with normal, household light bulbs (Tungsten film is set for 3200–3400 Kelvin), spaced evenly around the instrument. Do not use fluorescent lighting.

If you use a digital camera, consult your camera’s operation manual and make sure the settings are set for the proper lighting, since most digital cameras have varying light settings. We recommend a VGA image with an image size of 640 x 480 pixels. If you send us an image via email, please send it in a JPEG format, not bigger than 400KB if possible.

Bracket your shots

Make several exposures for each view of the instrument. Position your instrument, light it evenly, and make exposures at 3 or 4 consecutive apertures on your camera lens. For example, expose frames at f8, f11, f16, and f22. Doing this will give you a choice of exposures to choose from later, save you time, and help you avoid having to re-shoot.

Be aware of reflection

Avoid reflections on the surface of the violin. If you see the bright light of a reflection through the viewfinder of your camera, you will have the reflection on your picture.

Use indirect lighting, or use light bounced back upon the object being photographed, using a large piece of white card. Otherwise, you may get a severe reflection from your light source, causing unwanted white areas in your photographs. The higher the instrument’s arching, the more difficult it is to avoid reflection. Also be aware of shadows and dark areas, especially in the c-bouts.

Be aware of distortion

When choosing the position of your camera/lens in front of your instrument or instrument part, make sure that your camera is head-on with the center of the object. Do not take pictures at an angle to the surface of the instrument if you want to show the outline of the body or a full view of the scroll. Choose a lens with a long focal length. If you have a zoom lens, choose at least an 80 mm setting.

Background

Place your instrument in front of a light background. Do not choose black. We recommend using a neutral gray background. Any photography shop can supply a standard gray card, with instructions, so you can measure your exposures consistently. A sheet of cardboard is suitable; use the same background for all exposures on the roll.

Different views

Make pictures of several parts of the instrument. Also take pictures of various details, or close-ups. We recommend pictures of the full back and full front of the instrument. Take separate pictures of the scroll. Photograph the scroll from all sides. The left f-hole, the corners of the back, and other outstanding features are also important. Please refer to our sample pictures on the previous page.

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		A Guide for Violin Photography Instruments of the violin family are some of the most difficult objects to photograph. Because a violin usually has a shiny, curved surface, it reflects the light. Because of its three-dimensional nature, the fluting, the scroll and the depth of the arching of the violin are difficult and challenging features to capture on film. Details such as wood grains, purfling, or texture of the varnish are very small and therefore difficult to see. Parts of the instrument are covered by objects such as the bridge and tailpiece, which produce shadows. With the right choice of film and lighting, the optimal color and correct proportions of the violin will be reproduced accurately in the negative. In addition to a thorough verbal description, photographs play an essential part in identifying a violin, viola, cello or bow. In order for you to achieve a good photograph in a non-professional environment, we can lend the following advice. While we are aware that these guidelines may be complex for your photography equipment, we will greatly appreciate your sending the best photographs you are able to prepare. Be aware of the right lighting Lighting is the most crucial element of photography. Do not use a flash. Using several smaller light sources will bring better results than working with a few large light sources. If you use a conventional camera with daylight film, use natural indirect light. “Daylight” film is set for 5500 Kelvin, which is comparable to the light on a bright, sunny day. If you use a conventional camera with tungsten film, use several lights with normal, household light bulbs (Tungsten film is set for 3200–3400 Kelvin), spaced evenly around the instrument. Do not use fluorescent lighting. If you use a digital camera, consult your camera’s operation manual and make sure the settings are set for the proper lighting, since most digital cameras have varying light settings. We recommend a VGA image with an image size of 640 x 480 pixels. If you send us an image via email, please send it in a JPEG format, not bigger than 400KB if possible. Bracket your shots Make several exposures for each view of the instrument. Position your instrument, light it evenly, and make exposures at 3 or 4 consecutive apertures on your camera lens. For example, expose frames at f8, f11, f16, and f22. Doing this will give you a choice of exposures to choose from later, save you time, and help you avoid having to re-shoot. Be aware of reflection Avoid reflections on the surface of the violin. If you see the bright light of a reflection through the viewfinder of your camera, you will have the reflection on your picture. Use indirect lighting, or use light bounced back upon the object being photographed, using a large piece of white card. Otherwise, you may get a severe reflection from your light source, causing unwanted white areas in your photographs. The higher the instrument’s arching, the more difficult it is to avoid reflection. Also be aware of shadows and dark areas, especially in the c-bouts. Be aware of distortion When choosing the position of your camera/lens in front of your instrument or instrument part, make sure that your camera is head-on with the center of the object. Do not take pictures at an angle to the surface of the instrument if you want to show the outline of the body or a full view of the scroll. Choose a lens with a long focal length. If you have a zoom lens, choose at least an 80 mm setting. Background Place your instrument in front of a light background. Do not choose black. We recommend using a neutral gray background. Any photography shop can supply a standard gray card, with instructions, so you can measure your exposures consistently. A sheet of cardboard is suitable; use the same background for all exposures on the roll. Different views Make pictures of several parts of the instrument. Also take pictures of various details, or close-ups. We recommend pictures of the full back and full front of the instrument. Take separate pictures of the scroll. Photograph the scroll from all sides. The left f-hole, the corners of the back, and other outstanding features are also important. Please refer to our sample pictures on the previous page. back...